Dharamshala and Dalhousie - The Magnificent Dhauladhar Range!

                            The Magnificent Dhauladhar Range

My husband and I travelled to Dharamshala and Dalhousie in the month of March 2014. It was our first trip here. Our point of entry and exit was Gaggal Airport near Dharamshala. We stayed 2 nights in Norbulingka at the Sterling Sanctuary, 2 nights in Dalhousie at Grand View Hotel and 2 nights in McLeodganj at Bella Heights.

Let’s start with a little insight into the hotels we stayed at first! 

@ Norbulingka

The Sterling Sanctuary at Norbulingka – Well, first the pros, beautiful views from the hotel. The snowcapped mountains on one side and the perennial brook flowing on the other side. You can see the snowcapped mountains from your bed itself. And I enjoyed waking up to that view in the morning.

View from the balcony

A 5 min walk from the hotel

Location is lovely too. It is serene and makes for beautiful walks in and around Norbulingka. If you are a nature lover, like I am, then you can climb down to the brook. You have direct access to it from the hotel itself…enjoy sitting around soaking in the surroundings. If you have the time and inclination, spend some time at the terrace and watch the sunset – it’s lovely. 

View from the hotel terrace

 In the evenings, you can pass your time at the recreation center, they have a TT table, carom table, karaoke, video games for the kids and a baddi court too.

The Cons, the food at the restaurant takes forever to be made. The first day when we checked in, we were ravenous but were made to wait for an hour for lunch! On the bright side, lunch was freshly made just for us. So, my advice is, do what we did for dinner. We placed our order well in advance. Played a couple of games of table tennis at their recreation center, worked up an appetite and then enjoyed our dinner.

The hotel itself is more like a high end 2 star 0r maybe a 3 star property. We enjoyed our stay here. clean, comfortable, good service, tea coffee makers in the room, hot shower (but only at specific times in the day – the timings suited us fine, so we had no problems. Of course, if you want to have a shower at 10.30 in the night…you might have to put in a request at the reception).

@ McLeodganj

Bella Heights at McLeodganj – Away from all the hustle and bustle, yet just a 5 minute drive to the main hustle and bustle. Looks are deceiving. Was slightly disappointed when we reached the hotel, it didn’t look all that great from outside. But once inside, the room was spacious and had a lovely balcony with excellent views (Room 301).

Gorgeous sunrise from the room balcony

View from our room

I really enjoyed my breakfasts at the open terrace restaurant.  The service (Front desk and room service) was excellent. The service at the restaurant (at the terrace), however, left a lot to be desired. It was the view from up there that took my mind away from the bad service.

Enjoying the view from the terrace

An overview for stay in and around Dharamshala:

There are many options for stay in and around Dharamshala and McLeodganj.  I enjoyed the location of my hotel at Norbulingka. So, I would suggest, stay one night at least in Norbulingka. The Norbulingka Institute has a lovely guest house within its premises. It’s an amazing place to stay in if you love cultural treasures. I would like to stay here the next time I’m visiting.

    Guest house at The Norbulingka Institute

Another must, is at least a one night stay at Naddi. Spectacular views of the Dhauladhar range and a gorgeous sunset. People come to Naddi just to see the sunset. 

At Mcleodganj, there are many other options. Personally, the next time I’m visiting, I would like to stay at one of the beautifully furnished Villas apartments around the same area.

Just my observation and preferences about stay in the following places (I prefer to stay away from the crowded areas, but not too far either… close enough to the eateries and shops).

• Norbulingka – to enjoy the peaceful and scenic walks.
• Upper Dharamshala – much more peaceful than the main Dharamshala market area, which is bustling with crowds and little shops.
•  Naddi – noticed a couple of new boutique hotels coming up (Naddi is not close to the market area, though it is easily the gem of McLeodganj)
• McLeodganj – pick a place just away from the main market area

Peaceful and scenic walks around Norbulingka

Shiv Temple near Norbulingka

 This section touches on Transport and Sightseeing in and around Dharamshala and McLeodganj – the “Must see”; the “Can also see” and the “You can avoid”:

Once out of the airport, you can find taxi’s in the parking lot to take you wherever you want to go; that’s if you haven’t booked one in advance already. Also, once you are at McLeodganj, at the main chawk/market area you will find a taxi stand. You can hire a taxi from there for your sightseeing. I also saw a couple of auto rickshaws (can take you short distances).

We found someone randomly (actually coincidently) at the main market area who happened to own a travel company. He arranged our sightseeing for the next 2 days. Aman Aggarwal # 09857400001. skyways01travels@yahoo.co.in. A genuinely warm and nice person. The driver come tour guide Rahul Kumar # 9736573646 was an excellent guide, (enthusiastic and always smiling) gave us little trivia about the places we visited; his insights made our experience much more enjoyable.

And this was my experience throughout our trip in Himachal. I was overwhelmed with the warmth and generosity of these wonderful people.

Must See:

  

I have to put in here, the view from Gaggal airport itself is so beautiful. You can see the Dhauladhar range from the aircraft itself. We flew in by Spicejet. Little tips for you, hope they help….If you want great views from the aircraft, sit on the left side of the aircraft on your way in (seat numbers 1  to 7 – beyond that the view gets kind of interrupted and blocked by the wings), and of course, reverse on your way out. Get your camera ready when you step off the air craft (for all you trigger happy people!).  It was a clear day and a sight for sore eyes (especially for us from the plains). It was love at first sight with Dharamshala! 

• Norbulingka Institute - A trip to Dharamshala would be incomplete if you didn't visit the Norbulingka institute. Don’t miss the Norbulingka Institute; primed at preserving Tibetian art, craft and culture. We spent a couple of hours there.Take your time looking around. Adjacent to the main temple is a staircase that leads to the little museum on the first floor and further up, you will reach the resting place of His Holiness,The  Dalai Lama (whenever he is at Nobulingka). Nice views from up there.We also had the best Ginger Honey Lemon tea at their cafe (Please note, this place is strictly vegetarian).
  Just out of the Institute is a small little bakery on the first floor…where you can buy chocolate tarts, apple pie, blueberry tarts etc…yummy!! If you want to try       authentic traditional Tibetan food, you will get that bang opposite the institute.

• The Gyuto Monastery – Access to the main temple area of the monastery itself was closed the day we were there, but the entire complex is set against a beautiful backdrop.   
  

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•  The Dalai Lama Temple Complex  at McLoedganj. Please note, no camera, phones or other belongings can be taken up to the temple. You need to deposit them down, close to the entrance. Also, a good time to go is just before sunset. Watch the sunset from here – the whole place has a different aura about it. I loved the peace and the serenity of this temple. We missed the opportunity to meet/see His Holiness the Dalai Lama at one of his public lectures held here. This is the annual spring teaching. Look up the website you will get all the details. (Registrations/requests online etc.) http://www.dalailama.com/teachings/schedule   

• Naddi – If you’re staying here for the night, then that’s lovely, if not, get here by 4.00 pm and wait till after the sun goes down. In the meantime, spend a little time checking out some interesting views of the range through the telescope of one of the stall vendors here. It’s cheap (Rs.10!) and interesting as they will show you some temples and landmarks across the range.   

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Sun setting at Naddi

• St. John’s Church – quiet and quaint - the only structure left standing after the devastating 1903 earthquake here. 
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• Indrunag – I would recommend visiting Indrunag, solely for the panoramic views from this plateau. Just 5 kms away from the main Dharamshala market. You can see the entire city of Dharamsala from here. Great for some pics! For all you adventure enthusiasts, you can also do paragliding from Indrunag. And for those of you who are visiting for religious reasons, a visit to the Temple is a must.   

 

View from Indrunag

 

•  Kangra Fort – Features an interesting and informative audio guide, approximately 45 minutes (little known fact: it is one of the oldest forts in the country if not the oldest!). Great views from the Fort! Don’t miss the Kangra Museum, which is a 5 minute drive up from Kangra Fort. (Don’t mistake it for the little museum within the premises of the Kangra Fort). Have their special masala Maggi or the thali at the restaurant there. This museum is well maintained and definitely worth a visit.

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• Paragliding at Bir and Billing – know, it’s a 2.5 hrs. drive from McLeodganj.

• If you like trekking – I am told that Triund Hill is a must. Kareri lake (which is a glacial lake) is also worth the trek. (I couldn’t go to either… yes, my injured ankle!)

Can also see:

• Dharamshala Cricket stadium – Note to self: have to watch a match here at least once in my life! 

• Bhagshunath falls – Wasn’t impressed, as there was a stream of water, no falls. I’m sure season time it will look more impressive.

• Palampur tea estate – It’s nice to have a cup of tea here.

• Masroor temple complex – I couldn’t go here. If I could, I would pay a visit to the 8th cent. 15 monolithic carved temples. Though, I was told they lay in ruins.

• War memorial – An open air memorial in the heart of Dharamsala.

• \Dal Lake – Clearly nothing to write home about! You can give it a miss if you don’t have the time. It's less lake and more like a pond really. Dal lake seemed to have had it's glory at some point; it was much larger and more beautiful, boasting of it's own flora and fauna. However has lost it's glory now, as a result of restoration which didn't quite work out as planned. Nonetheless, if you're travelling to Naddi from McLeodganj, you will pass it. The Dal Lake is en route to beautiful Naddi.

If you like visiting temples – there are plenty.  Chamunda Devi Temple and Jwala Ji Mandir/ Jawala Devi temple were the ones we visited. At Jwala Ji, be prepared for a long line into the main “mata”temple. (Read up on Jwala Ji, I was interested in seeing the ever burning flame. Be ready for getting pushed and shoved around inside the small temple! Once outside, the complex is nice to just walk around). If you're visiting for religious reasons, then by all means! If not, then you can give it a miss.

Inside Jwala Ji Temple complex

 The temperature during the first week of March was comfortable. A light jacket was sufficient during the day. Be prepared for rain at any time. The day we arrived, was a sunny day to begin with, which then turned into a rainy chilled afternoon and after about an hour was a pleasant evening once again. So, quite unpredictable. Be prepared!

A beautiful sunny day at Dharamshala

There are many places to eat at the center of the Chawk/ main market area. Even down the lanes and by lanes you have plenty of options. But my favourite was Tibet Kitchen at the chawk (crossing) of the main market area; adjacent to the HRTC Bus Ticket Counter. Here you get Tibetan, Bhutanese, Chinese, and Indian dishes. The Tibetan and Bhutanese food at Tibet Kitchen was absolutely outstanding and it was a clear winner! 
We tried the so-called Italian at Nick’s Italian Kitchen but frankly, we thought it was a bit overrated. The quiches were nice but do not order the pasta – it was atrocious! It’s a nice place to just hang out and have a cup of coffee – it also houses a nice library where one can sit and while away their time.

Best orange juice on one of our many road journe

Enjoy shopping at Mcleodganj! I’m not much of a shopping enthusiast, so can’t really give you a detailed guide on the shops. But as far as I could tell, McLeodganj is the place to do your shopping. Lots of little shops selling Tibetian handicrafts, jewelry and souvenirs. Shops selling branded jackets at relatively competitive prices, and a handful of Kashmiri artisans, selling goods at cheap prices.

@ Dalhousie

The Grand View Hotel at Dalhousie – True to its name! Has the most awesome views in Dalhousie hands down. If you do not wish to stay at a colonial bungalow for an old charm feel, then this heritage property should be your first and only pick! I think all I have are pros…I’m thinking hard for the cons.

 The pros, the views from the rooms itself (or at least the view from the room I stayed in was gorgeous, the luxury room), loved the look of this heritage property – beautifully maintained, great service, attentive staff and just to add to it a warm personal touch, was the owner Radhika.

She was always around, interacting with guests, asking them if their stay was comfortable, giving sightseeing tips when asked. And even organized a games evening for the guests (tombola and some games for the kids) followed by a bonfire. The property also houses a recreation center (enjoyed the foosball table), and a library (books and DVD’s too – we were given a DVD player in the room on request – watched an old movie that night; lovely).

The hotel itself can organize your sightseeing and boating at Chamera Lake. You can look up the packages on their website. Though, I did feel they were a tad expensive. 

The accident, as I mentioned earlier, restricted my movements quite a bit. The staff at the hotel was extremely helpful. Radhika was there to provide whatever help she could. The hotel provided me with a wheelchair to drop me to the car. I really appreciated everyone’s help here. Thank you all so much!

Ok, for the cons, as all hill stations do and for most hotels in Dalhousie it’s true, they have their friendly neighbours visiting, the Monkeys. Two out of the 3 days there, were bright and sunny but the last day was cold and raining, and that’s when we got a visit from the neighbours. They were taking shelter in our balcony. Just make sure you lock your balcony and there will be no other monkey business.

Just a heads up, be prepared to climb up a slightly inclined slope, (from where the car drops you off) to the main reception area . A wheel chair can be requested, in case you are traveling with elderly people who can't make that climb! 

Sights in and around Dalhousie:

The best sights are seen en route Dharamshala < - > Dalhousie. One of the most picturesque journeys I’ve been on so far. Don’t miss it!

En route Dharamshala to Dalhousie - you can see Chamera Lake in the distance

Dalhousie is all about talking long walks, soaking in the colonial charm, enjoying the cool weather and relaxing. If you want all of that, then please do not plan to go there on any holiday or even over the weekend. (Dalhousie is a weekend getaway for neighbouring states). We happened to experience one day of this (well actually a couple of hours of this)…and I was ready to spend the rest of the day relaxing at my beautiful hotel away from the chaotic traffic jams, noisy, loud and large crowds of people. There was no place to walk…all this at the mall road (Gandhi Chawk)!

Now let’s get to Monday… Oh peaceful weekday, away from the madding crowd! Off we went sightseeing amidst our serene surrounding.

Sights I enjoyed in Dalhousie -

• I enjoyed the walk from Gandhi chawk (main mall road), through the back road to Subash Chawk. 
• St. Francis’ Church
• St. Andrew’s Church

 

Tibetian art along the back roads

St. Francis Church

Mixed views about 

• Subash Bowli – makes for an interesting read, nice surroundings but not impressive
• St. John’s Church – If you’re at Gandhi Chawk you can drop in a visit.

Can be avoided totally – Unassuming.

Pancpula - if you have little ones  with you, they might enjoy this. 

Satdhara - Supposed to be 7 streams. Now just a trickle of water.

Tried going to Jandrighat Palace but it is now closed to the general public. We wanted to go to Bakrota Hills, we were told the views are beautiful from up there but the road was snowed in and blocked.

Must see - outside/around Dalhousie –

• Kalatop Wildlife Sanctuary (10 kms) - I’m not sure about seeing the wildlife here but if you have the time, spend a night here at one of the bungalows. Check out the Forest Rest House.

 

Driving to Kalatop

• Khajjiar (23 kms) –  If you're in Dalhousie, a day trip to Khajjiar is a must.  Make a picnic out of it...take a book along, something to eat and a sheet to lie on. We were here in March, it was lush green everywhere! 

 

• Lots of Dhaba’s to eat at. If you’re not however, fond of North Indian or the typical Indian-Chinese food, make sure to pack some goodies. Though, I quite enjoyed the local “gobi paratha” with pickle and butter at the local dhaba.If you’re keen, you can also spend a night at Khajjiar. They do have accommodation there (from very basic to more luxurious – take your pick).  

 

Restaurant, Dhabas and Lodges at Khajjiar

Sleep over in Khajjiar - one of the many options

• The time we traveled, the shorter road from Dalhousie to Khajjiar was closed due snow fall a week before. So we had to take the longer route, through Chamba (which took us 2.5 hrs). We  made the most of the road block too; when we reached Khajjiar we drove up some 10kms to the road block and enjoyed playing in the snow. 

• Diankund (17kms) - is the highest mountain peak in Dalhousie. The view makes the walk up worthwhile.

• Chamera Lake (21 kms)– great views of Chamera Lake while driving from Dalhousie to the lake itself. You also get to see the Chamera Dam. You can go boating at the Lake.

Chamera Lake

Chamera Dam

• Chamba (56 kms) If you like visiting temples, you will enjoy visiting Chamba town.  It had started raining by the time we reached so we managed to see only a couple of them. One of the most famous ones being the Laxmi Narayan Temple and Chamunda Devi Temple. We passed through the Chaugan Ground but couldn’t go into the grounds, as it was raining very heavy then. The Chaugan Ground holds a week long fair annually, generally held in July/August, locally known as Minjar Mela. We were told that this is the most important fair in Chamba and the whole town is decorated brightly with lights and colours. 

 

In front of Chamunda Devi Temple. Holi in the rain - what better way to celebrate Holi !

The highlights of my trip, were the snowcapped panoramic views of the Dhauladhar range (Lesser Himalayas), the picturesque drive between Dharamshala and Dalhousie and the warmth and hospitality of the people from this region.

I think I’ve covered most of what I had seen over these few days. I enjoyed exploring and discovering new places; meeting new people; experiencing different flavours and just soaking in the surroundings. And of course by now you know, I don’t much care for crowds and love sunsets. But what made this even more fun and special is, I had my best friend to share this journey with! 

                                    Wishing You A Happy Journey!!!